Takayama's History and Its Charm

Hida Province and the Tokugawa Shogunate

Hida-Takayama, then known as Hida Province, was one of the territories governed directly by the Tokugawa shogunate during the Edo period (1603–1868). When you travel through the Japanese countryside, you'll find yourself drawn to historic sites, and most of them reflect the Edo period. Apart from Kyoto and Nara, which carry more than a thousand years of history as former capitals, most Japanese cherish the historic districts, buildings, art, and artisanal traditions that grew during the Edo period. It was the most peaceful era in Japanese history, two and a half centuries without war. It was also the most suppressed and strictly controlled. By limiting foreign ships to a few designated ports, it also greatly enriched Japan's domestic culture.

As a food enthusiast and a micro-farmer, I have to point out that Edo already had a restaurant ranking system. It was printed on a single sheet of paper, laid out like the sumo wrestler rankings. Many cookbooks and farming guides were also published at the time. One of my favorite YouTubers is a natural farmer who apprenticed under Masanobu Fukuoka. He always says that Edo-period farmers had already tested almost everything we could think of in organic farming. Reading those old farming guides is on my list for someday.

The city of Edo (today's Tokyo) was more populous than London, with over a million people. Imagine a crowded town built entirely of wood, and it's easy to see how devastating a fire could be. In fact, major fires broke out in Edo every few years. This is why Hida came under direct shogunate control: to rebuild the city. Hida was known for its forests and fine carpentry, and Edo needed timber and skilled carpenters to rebuild after each fire. And so, in 1692, Hida-Takayama came under the direct rule of the Tokugawa shogunate.

The shogunate directly governed villages, towns, and ports all around Japan to bring it wealth. Hida was one of the largest, about one and a half times the size of Luxembourg, or roughly the size of Rhode Island. Sado and Oki, each an island province of its own, were also under direct control: Sado to supply gold, and Oki as a strategic port of call for the ships that carried goods along the Sea of Japan coast. You may not know where Sado is, but it's home to Kodo, the taiko drumming group that tours around the world. I've seen them perform twice, once at Carnegie Hall in New York and once at Walt Disney Concert Hall in Los Angeles. Rich history and culture always grow from strong patronage. With its close ties to the shogunate and the wealth of its gold mines, the island developed an especially rich culture. Sado no longer gives us gold, but it still has a strong presence through the performing arts. I recently traveled to Niigata and northern Nagano and came across the "Gold Trail," the route that carried gold from Sado to Edo. Trails like this, and others such as the "Mackerel Trail," are historic routes now mostly replaced by paved roads. In Gifu, we have the Nakasendo, a scenic trail that is part of my tour. I'd like to introduce it another time.

Takayama Today

Takayama still has a strong presence today, and you'll hear Japanese people call it "Little Kyoto." One major reason it became such a tourist center is new road access. The Japan Alps stand between Nagano and Gifu, and for a long time they made travel and transport very difficult. In 1997, the Abō Tunnel opened, creating an east–west route from the Nagano side. Now many travelers go from Tokyo to Nagano, then on to Takayama and Toyama. Before that, you could only reach Takayama from the south or the north, and there wasn't even a highway north through Gifu to Takayama and Shirakawa-go. I remember the drive taking five to six hours. Since the expressway was completed in 2008, it takes about an hour and a half from my home in Seki. A day trip to Takayama, which was never an option for me before, is now easy.

My father's business was importing hardwood, and his clients in Hida-Takayama were all furniture makers. When you come and stay at my home, you'll see that all the furniture is made in Japan, most of it in Takayama. And it's not just furniture. Many small businesses and independent makers here create beautiful wood products, and you can even find some of them at the morning market.

The Morning Market

There are three well-known morning markets in Japan. One is in Takayama. Another is in Wajima, not far from Takayama, which was devastated by the recent Noto earthquake. Both have become more tourist destinations than community markets. Takayama has two market locations. The one along the Miyagawa River is popular and full of tourists, so there are more new vendors catering to visitors. The one I like is smaller, but it has more local farmers, growers, and makers of pickles and natural ornaments that reflect the season and the region. So I usually start my Takayama tours at this market. It's held in front of the Jinya, the local government office of the Edo period and the only building of its kind in Japan that survives in its original form. The market has been held right in front of it for generations.

Eating in Takayama

Takayama also has wonderful restaurants. Toyama Bay lies just to the north, and in the Edo period, winter yellowtail from the bay was carried over the mountains along the "Buri Trail," through Takayama and on to Shinshū. Today, chefs here can still source a wide variety of seafood, along with everything the mountains offer: mushrooms, nuts, wild plants, and fruit. I know a few chefs who moved to Takayama because they found the local produce so inspiring.

Tea culture took root in Takayama under the Kanamori lords, who ruled before 1692, and it was carried on by the wealthy merchants of the town. For centuries after that, the Jinya kept Takayama a seat of shogunate authority in the middle of the mountains. Because of this, the town has several refined kaiseki restaurants, with beautiful architecture and Japanese gardens, where every dish is served on artful ceramics. Kaiseki plating in Kyoto can feel almost over the top, dazzlingly beautiful and elaborate. The kaiseki course I had in Takayama was different. It was rustic, beautiful in its simplicity, and in harmony with the landscape around it. It's remarkable to find a restaurant like this in the mountains. And it's not only kaiseki. Takayama has a good bakery and pastry shop, excellent soba and sushi restaurants, and cafés of all kinds. I can't wait for you to try some of my favorite places.

Hida beef (Hida-gyu) is the region's own brand of wagyu. I'm not a big fan of wagyu, especially the heavily marbled A5 grade, but Hida beef sushi is a good bite to try.

Hoba miso is another regional specialty. Miso is placed on a large dried magnolia leaf (hoba), which serves as both the grilling surface and the plate, and warmed over a small charcoal brazier. The simplest version is miso with chopped green onions, but in recent years you'll find many variations, with mushrooms or Hida beef.

What to Buy

If you walk along Kami-Sannomachi, the most photographed historic street in Takayama, you'll see that it's now filled with new shops selling kitschy souvenirs. There are a few good places, of course. But it's hard for visitors to tell whether something truly comes from the Hida region, and I've seen similar souvenir shops all over Japan. I don't want you to get drawn into those places and spend too much of your time there. That's why I usually share my favorite places before the tour. Most of them are owned by locals and sell something unique. Take them as suggestions, but trust your instincts and explore the town. You can spend hours on Kami-Sannomachi alone, or wander the other streets to find tiny shops here and there.

Two local crafts are worth knowing. Shunkei-nuri is lacquerware with a clear finish that lets the natural wood grain show through, a tradition that began in Takayama in the early 1600s. Shibukusa-yaki is hand-painted porcelain that has been made in Takayama since the 1840s. If you're lucky, you might find them at a reasonable price in an antique shop.

A Place I Keep Returning To

I love taking short trips to Takayama, and I've even considered building a tiny house here. But I learned that land in Takayama is expensive by Japanese standards, and prices keep rising as more tourists arrive. Finding a good lot in central Takayama takes patience.

Still, Takayama has wonderful craftsmen and carpenters who never stop impressing me. I'll keep looking for the right lot, and I look forward to meeting a great builder here. Someday, I hope to build a beautiful wooden home in Takayama.

Japan Travel Tips: Stay Hands-Free, Cash-Ready, and Connected

Hands-Free Travel with Black Cat Delivery (Yamato Transport)

Black Cat delivery service makes traveling in Japan so much easier! Since I usually use public transportation, I try to keep my luggage light. Trains during rush hour can be crowded, and elevators aren’t always convenient to find. The best way is to travel with a small suitcase and send your larger one ahead—to the airport or your next hotel.

Good to know: Shinkansen (bullet trains) now charge an additional fee for oversized suitcases (total dimensions over 160 cm).

• To a hotel: Your suitcase will be placed in your room before you check in.

• To the airport: Look for the Black Cat counter on the same departure floor where you check in for your flight. You’ll need to provide your flight details and ship at least two days before departure. For reference, I usually spend less than $30 to ship one suitcase from my home in Gifu to the airport in Tokyo.

• Timing: Within Japan’s main island, luggage usually arrives the next day.

• To my home in Gifu: Please include my Japanese cell phone number on the address slip.

You’ll receive a carbon copy of the slip—keep it handy, as you’ll need it to retrieve your luggage at the airport.

What to write on the shipping slip:

• Upper left: Recipient’s name, address, phone number (or airport name, flight number, flight date, and departure time)

• Lower left: Sender’s name, address, phone number

• Upper right: Contents of your shipment (e.g., food, clothes, gifts)

Examples of Use

• Jully: When Jully bought a posture support cushion too large to carry, she shipped it directly from the store to the airport.

• Stella & Neal: Traveling to multiple cities, they shared one large suitcase for souvenirs. They shipped it ahead to their hotel and traveled light with just backpacks for a few days.

This way, you can enjoy Japan hands-free and stress-free!

Transit Card on Your Phone

In the Apple Wallet, you can add a Transit Card from Japan. I recommend Suica, which works in major cities across Japan and on most public transit systems. With Suica, you can load money in advance and use it to pay for JR trains, buses, and subways.

Beyond transportation, Suica is also widely accepted at convenience stores, kiosks, and shops inside train stations, making it a handy all-in-one travel card right on your phone.

For iPhone & Apple Watch users: Travelers can also download Welcome Suica, an app designed especially for foreign visitors.

For Android users: As of 2025, mobile Suica and similar services are not available on US Android devices. The easiest option is to buy a physical Suica or PASMO card at the station and top it up with cash at ticket machines or convenience stores.

Always Bring Some Cash

In Japan, payment methods can vary—it’s totally up to the owner. Some small restaurants, and even certain high-end ones, still only accept cash. To be safe, always carry a few thousand yen so you’re never caught without a way to pay.

If you need to withdraw cash, 7-Eleven convenience stores are the most convenient option. Their ATMs are foreign card–friendly and available almost everywhere.

Book Shinkansen Tickets with the EX App

For bullet train travel, I recommend using the EX App (Tokaido Sanyo Shinkansen Reservation App). With this app, you can book and manage shinkansen tickets directly on your phone. It’s available in English and makes purchasing tickets much easier than using the ticket machines at the station.

Good to know:

• You can choose your train, seat type, and departure time in advance.

• Tickets can be picked up at the station or linked directly to your transit card (Suica) for touchless entry at the gate.

• The app supports credit card payments, so you don’t need to worry about having enough cash on hand.

This is the easiest way for travelers to secure shinkansen tickets without the stress of long lines.

Honoring Maru Kim Through His Recipes

How Maru cooked and how he shared food told us so much about who he was. When he prepared meals, he always cooked plenty—because he loved to invite family, friends, and coworkers, making sure no one was left out. I remember being impressed that when he made bulgogi, he often cooked five pounds at once. If there was any left over, he would turn it into new dishes the next day—another sign of his creativity and resourcefulness, and his joy in never letting food go to waste.

In the kitchen, he was creative, knowledgeable, and adventurous. When he developed recipes, he built them on fundamental seasonings and simple techniques, knowing that many of us appreciate a minimalistic approach—one that makes it easy to recreate dishes at home again and again.

To honor his memory, I want to share his recipes just as he would have—openly and joyfully, inviting everyone to cook, eat, and remember.

When we cook, we preserve more than taste—we preserve stories and hearts. Maru’s food carried both his out-of-the-box creativity and his pride in Korean tradition. By sharing his recipes, we continue his story at the table, where he always wanted people to gather and smile. These recipes are offered here to keep his voice alive, reminding us that when we cook, we bring those we’ve lost closer again.

This page is dedicated to Maru, who shared his love of Korean cooking with so many. Even if you never had the chance to meet him, I hope these recipes will bring you into his world—where food was abundant, flavors were shared openly, and cooking itself felt like part of the party. May his recipes bring comfort and joy, and help create moments of connection at your own table.

Beef Bulgogi: (불고기)

Ingredients:

• 1 lb Beef rib eye, sliced (Look for bulgogi cuts at Korean markets. I recommend not using shabu shabu cut meats as it is too thin. You can also use sliced beef tenderloin as an option too)

• 1/2 small onion, sliced

• 2 Scallion, cut into 2-inch pieces

Marinade:

• 2 TBS soy sauce

• 2 TBS sugar*

• 1/2 TBS Sesame oil

• 1 TBS Garlic, minced

[*Note:Can use other sweeteners to use less sugar, such as Ume Syrup, Korean Pear Juice, Oligosaccharide, or corn syrup. Adding corn syrup or oligosaccharide helps give more of a glossy appearance when grilled. However I like using regular white sugar so I can use the Bulgogi as a base for hot pot and other dishes where corn syrup may not be desired]

[ Tip: At Korean markets, they would usually sell a package set of veggies meant for soup or nabe that contains a lot of the ingredients above in small portions, along with some shiitake mushroom, enoki, and napa cabbage. I like buying one of those to split the veggies into different dishes. The napa cabbage, enoki, and shiitake can be used for bulgogi hotpot for example]

Garnish:

• Scallions, chopped

• Sesame Seeds

• Drizzle of sesame oil at the end (use sparingly)

Instructions:

1. Mix all the ingredients and marinade well and let it marinade for 1 hour minimum, best if overnight.

2. You can also add other vegetables such as cabbage, mushrooms, carrots when cooking but you may need to add some more soy sauce and sugar.

3. Add garnish after plating.

4. Serve with lettuce, sesame leaves, pickled radish sheets, or rice sheets, with some ssamjang or gochujang on the side.

[Note: Depending on the meat, you may need to add more marinade when cooking. After marinating, I always like to cook a little bit of the meat to taste and adjust as needed]

** Optional Recipe Using Beef Bulgogi (Not made in class)**

Beef Bulgogi Hotpot: (불고기 전골)  

Ingredients:

• 1 lb bulgogi (see recipe above)

• 2 cups Dashi broth (Anchovy and Kombu, or any dashi pack of your liking)

• 1 TBS Soy Sauce for Soup (Gook soy sauce, joseon soy sauce, or usukuchi)

• 1 Onion, sliced

• Variety of mushrooms (shiitake, oyster mushrooms, enoki), sliced

• Napa cabbage, cut into 2” width

• Handful of Dangmyun (Korean sweet potato glass noodles, soaked in water at least 1 hour) [Note: Udon noodles can be a great alternative that don’t require soaking!]

• 3-4 Scallions, cut into 2” lengths

• Optional: ½ bunch Mugwort, cut into 2” lengths

Garnish:

• 1 Red jalapenos, sliced

• Scallions, chopped

Instructions:

1. Before adding in the dashi broth, place all the ingredients in a pot neatly for presentation. I like adding the Dangmyun noodles in the center and use it as a base for the bulgogi to sit on so the meat can be seen on the center.

[Note: If you are adding Mugwort, tofu, or other green vegetables, add them in a few minutes before turning the heat off so they do not break apart or lose their color.]

1. Add the broth slowly so the ingredients don’t shift around too much while pouring

2. Bring to a boil on high heat, them simmer on medium or medium-low heat till meat is fully cooked. Add garnish before serving

Jaeyuk Pork: (제육볶음)

Ingredients:

• 1 lb Pork Butt slices (Great Alternative: Thin sliced pork belly)

• ½ small onion, sliced

• 2 scallions, cut into 2-inch pieces

Marinade:

• 3 TBS Gochujang

• 3 TBS Ssamjang

• ¾ tsp Korean Chili powder, coarse

• ½ TBS Ume Syrup

• ½ TBS Garlic, minced

Garnish:

• Chopped scallions

• Sesame Seeds

• Small drizzle of Sesame Oil at the end (use sparingly)

[Note: Great to be served with Bulgogi and eat Ssam, aka wrap]

Instructions: Similar to Bulgogi

Seafood Pancake: (해물파전)

Batter mix:  (2 pancakes)

• ½ cup Pancake flour mix (부침가루)*

• ½ cup frying batter mix (튀김가루) or use tempura batter or potato starch**

• Pinch of salt

• ¾ to 1 cup of Water***

[*Note: This pancake flour mix is not the same pancake batter found in American markets. This is a specific flour mix sold in Korean markets to make Korean style pancakes]

[**Note: the frying batter mix is optional. Using this mix or tempura mix helps gives it a crunchier texture. However traditionally only pancake flour mix is needed to give a more chewier texture]

[***Note: Start off with ¾ water and add more as needed. See instructions for more info]

Ingredients for pancake:

• 2 Eggs (to pour on top instead of inside batter)

• ½  bunch Scallions, cut in half or leave whole

• Frozen seafood mix, thawed

• 1 Tbs sake or soju (for seafood)

• 2 Red Jalapeno, thinly sliced

• ¼ onion, sliced

• Red chili 🌶 , sliced
  
  

Dipping sauce:

• 2 TBS Soy Sauce

• 2 TBS Vinegar (preferably Lemon or Apple Vinegar)

• 1 TBS Sesame Oil

• 1 TBS Korean Chili Powder (Fine), 

• 1 TBS Sesame Seeds

• 1 Scallion, chopped

• 1 Red Jalapeno, finely diced

Instructions:

1. In a small bowl, add the seafood mix with soju to help remove any unwanted seafood smells for 5-10 min.

2. Prepare batter mix in the bowl. Adjust the water amount according to the direction of the pancake package you purchased. You are looking for a nice smooth continuous flow of batter when poured. If it breaks off when pouring, it needs more water. But do not make it too watery, you are looking for a nice slow flow of batter.

3. Lightly season a pan with vegetable oil and place Green onion/Korean chives over medium heat in a neat line but do not place them too close to each other or the pancake can break apart

4. Once the vegetable is lightly cooked add the seafood mix. Again allow for room between ingredients for the batter to fill in

5. Pour in the batter and cook until the bottom is starting to brown

6. Flip the pancake over

7. Add some red pepper slices on top and then crack one egg on top of the pancake

8. Break the yolk and spread the egg over the pancake.

9. Once the pancake is fully cooked, flip over one last time and let it cook for 1-2 more min to cook the egg.

10. Serve with dipping sauce

Chicken Nengchae: (닭가슴살 냉체)

Ingredients:

• ½ Chicken breast, shredded. (Can be replaced with premade Pork Feet thinly sliced, jellyfish, cooked shrimp, etc.. It is very versatile and goes well with most proteins)

• ½ carrot, thin julienne

• ¼ purple cabbage, shredded

• 3-4 imitation crab, cut in half, then shredded

• 1 bunch of korean chives, cut into length to match other ingredients

• ½ red bell pepper, thinly sliced

• 1 cucumber (korean or persian - ½ cucumber if korean), julienned

• ¼-½ onion, thinly sliced, soaked in cold water for 10 min. Then drained

• ½ yellow bell pepper, thinly sliced

• ½ bunch sesame leaves, chiffonade

[Note: These vegetables are more of a strong recommendation. You can add in your favorite veggies too, but it is good to add veggies with color in mind. We want to have a variety or an even ratio of colors.

Nengchae Sauce:

• 1 Tbs Mustard (from tube, Asian mustard. Some brands do not have the necessary kick required for this dish that I end up using the whole bottle sometimes. Another tip is that I use a little bit of wasabi to help give the extra kick if the mustard isn’t spicy enough)

• 4 TBS Sugar

• 5 TBS Vinegar (Lemon vinegar preferred)

• 1 TBS Jorim Soy Sauce (I typically use regular Soy Sauce, aka Jin or Yangjo)

• ¼ tsp Salt, fine sea salt

• ½ TBS Minced Garlic

• ½ TBS Sesame Oil

• Sesame Seeds (black sesame seeds are usually used for Nenchae as the color looks better since the sauce is yellow)

Instructions:

1. On a large round plate or tray, place your main protein in the center (For this recipe, Chicken breast)

2. Add vegetables to the plate so that all the long pieces are pointing towards the center. Keep in the mind the colors of the vegetables as you lay them down. Do not place similar colors next to each other and try to balance the colors out throughout the whole dish.

3. Pour the nengchae sauce mostly over the chicken, but drizzle some of the sauce over the veggies too in one large circle.

4. Garnish with black sesame seeds.

5. Mix the veggies and chicken before serving
   
   

Jengban Gooksu:

Ingredients:

• ½ Chicken breast, shredded

• ½ carrot, thin julienned

• ¼ purple cabbage, shredded

• 1 bunch sesame leaves, chiffonade

• ½ red bell pepper, sliced

• ½ yellow bell pepper, sliced

• 1 persian cucumber or ½ korean cucumber, julienne

• ¼-½ onion, thinly sliced, then put in cold water for 10 min then drain.

• 3-4 red lettuce, thicker than a chiffonade

• ½ Korean Pear, julienned

• 2 servings of Soba noodles, cooked, chilled, and then drained

Jengban Sauce: (3-4 servings)

• 8 TBS Bibim sauce*

• ½ TBS Sesame seeds

• ½ TBS Sesame Oil

• ½ TBS Ume syrup (or corn syrup or oligosaccharide)

• ½ TBS Gochugaru (Korean chili powder, coarse)

• ¾ TBS Ume Vinegar

• 4 TBS grated korean pear

[*Note: This is not the traditional recipe for Jengban Gooksu. Instead, this recipe was created to show other uses for the Bibim sauce other than Bibimbap or Bibim Ramyun. This sauce recipe mimics the traditional sauce but not as complex in flavors]

Instructions:

Similarly to the Nengchae recipe, add the soba noodles to the middle of the plate. Add the veggies around the noodles. However, only pour the Jengban sauce over the noodles. Garnish with sesame seeds. Optionally, you can also add shredded nori seaweed as garnish.

Soondubu - Soft Tofu Soup: (순두부 찌개)

Ingredients:

• 1 Soft Tofu, pack

• Shrimp & Clams *

• Pork belly, diced* (they sell pork belly cut into chunks used for soups at market)

• 1/4 medium onion, diced

• ½ Zucchini, diced

• Water

• Optional: gochugaru (chili powder)
  

[*Note: You can use any seafood or meat for your soondubu. If you like seafood soondubu, you can buy a seafood medley mix at the market that contains shrimp, squid, mussels, and clam instead of buying each ingredient.]

Soup Base:

• Soondubu soup mix

Garnish:

• Scallions, chopped

• 1 egg (Optional but recommended)

Instructions:

1. Read the instructions on the soondubu soup mix for the recommended water ratio. Alternatively, creating a light dashi broth helps give more depth of flavor.**

2. Add all the ingredients into a small pot

3. Pour water or dashi broth

4. Add soup base and boil

5. Add garnish at the end and crack egg into pot after turning off heat.

[**Note: if you accidentally put too much water and the soup taste bland, add a little bit of soup soy sauce in. If you are using seafood, add some fish sauce instead of soy sauce]

Nakji Bokkeum - Spicy Octopus: (낙지볶음)

Ingredients:

• 2 thawed octopus (Nakji)*

• 1/2 onion sliced

• 4 stalks scallion cut 2” length

• ¼ carrot, sliced

• Approx. 3-4 Tbs (or more) of flour and coarse sea salt each for cleaning the octopus.

• Optional: 1/2 squash cut into half moon shapes 1/4" thick

[*Note: At Korean markets, you will see a variety of frozen octopus in the frozen seafood section. I recommend the small octopus or the baby octopus for this dish. Using the baby octopus makes this dish become Jjukkeumi Bokkeum (쭈꾸미 볶음)]

Marinade:

• 2 Tbs of gochugaru (coarse korean chili pepper)

• 1 Tbs gochujang (chili paste)

• 3 Tbs soy sauce (Jorim, Jin, or yangjo Soy Sauce)

• 1 TBS of Mirin (or soju)

• 1 TBS of Oligosaccharide

• 1 TBS Garlic, minced
  

[ Tip: Add 1 TBS of gochugaru and 1 TBS of a spicy gochugaru that contains a pepper called cheongyang to really give it that kick, but 2 TBS of gochugaru and some minced serrano pepper can work too. Serrano pepper has the closest taste to cheongyang pepper.]

Garnish:

• 1 TBS Sesame seeds

• 1 TBS Sesame Oil

• 1 bunch sesame leaves, chiffonade

• Optional: ½ serrano or cheon yang pepper, sliced. (If you want more heat which is the preferred way to enjoy this dish)

Instructions:

1. Put all the sauce ingredients together and mix well in a bowl. Set aside (for sauces like these, it usually tastes better if you let the sauce sit overnight to let all the flavors blend, but not necessary.)

2. If using fresh octopus, remove the guts of the octopus from underneath the head.

3. In a bowl, place the octopus and sprinkle the flour and salt and scrub the octopus with your hands and mix well with the flour. Rub the octopus with flour with your hands like you are hand washing laundry.

4. Run the octopus in water and clean well to get rid of all the flour. (This will get rid of a lot of the bad smells from cooking octopus and also gets rid of any weird tastes).

5. Cut the octopus into bite size pieces, roughly 1-1.5 inch pieces. If you are using the baby octopus, You can leave them whole.

6. Blanch the octopus in boiling water for 1 minute and strain. Set aside the octopus after properly straining water. (This step prevents the dish from becoming watery)

7. On a saucepan add vegetable oil (don't need to be shy with the oil), and stir fry the large white part of scallions and garlic. (Making Scallion oil)

8. Once the white part of the scallions start to become a little transparent, add in the bigger veggies that take longer to cook such as onions and carrots

9. When the onion starts to become transparent, add the octopus and sauce and stir fry on high heat. Also add in the remaining veggies and stir fry until all veggies are fully cooked. (Octopus does not take long to cook so when the veggies are done, the octopus is done. If you cook it for too long the octopus becomes rubbery. Do let cook octopus more than 8 min to keep it tender)

10. Add the sesame seeds and sesame oil and mix well. Stir fry for 1 more minute and turn off the heat and garnish with sesame leaves and sliced peppers.

[Tip: you can make fried rice with leftover sauce! You can add rice, sesame oil, kimchi (kkakduggi goes well with fried rice and adds a nice crunch), shredded nori, sesame seed, into the pan and stir fry and then lay out thin and flat and let the rice crisp up.]

The Mottainai Mentality: Japan’s Culture of No-Waste and Mindful Eating

A Culture Rooted in Respect for Food

In Japan, meal portions are modest, and taking leftovers home is uncommon. For many visitors, this comes as a quiet surprise. What they may not realize is that Japan has a deeply ingrained cultural mindset around waste—especially food waste. When we fail to finish what’s on our plate, we say mottainai, a word that loosely translates to “what a waste,” but carries a moral undertone of regret and mindfulness.

From childhood, Japanese are taught to eat everything they are served. In my family, leaving even a single grain of rice in the bowl was frowned upon. But this wasn’t unique to our household—it reflects a national ethic. Food is not to be taken for granted.

This reverence for food is also embedded in the Japanese language. Before eating, we say itadakimasu (いただきます, ee-tah-dah-kee-mahss)—an expression of gratitude for the life of the plants and animals we consume to sustain and nurture our bodies, and for the labor of everyone who contributed to the meal. The word itself means “receiving the gift” or “receiving the offering,” reflecting a deep respect for what has been given. After eating, we say gochisōsama (ごちそうさま, goh-chee-sō-sah-mah)—a phrase that expresses gratitude not only to the people who prepared and served the meal, but also to nature itself, which provided the ingredients. These phrases, simple and routine, are daily affirmations of gratitude and humility.

Early Lessons from the School Lunch Tray

A good place to observe this cultural norm in practice is the Japanese elementary school lunch system. In a typical classroom of thirty students, children are divided into groups of five, with each group taking turns to serve lunch to their peers. The school provides aprons, hats, and—since the pandemic—face masks for this task. Large containers holding the day’s meal—main dishes, sides, and soup—are wheeled into the classroom, and students serve each other on real dishes, not disposable trays.

I recently confirmed with my sister, who is raising a child in Japan, that this system remains unchanged since my own school days. Students still rotate weekly through service duties. They take the aprons and hats home for laundering before handing them off to the next group. This process teaches not only responsibility, but also the importance of fairness and awareness of others.

When I was in school, the rule was strict: finish everything you’re served. Today, students are allowed to return food they don’t think they can eat to the communal pot. Those who want more can help themselves. On days when a popular dish like curry appears, students play rock-paper-scissors for seconds. It's a playful but telling example of valuing food and not wasting it.

In my Los Angeles cooking classes, I’ve observed a stark contrast. When guests are invited to serve themselves, some tend to over-serve their own plates—sometimes to the extent that it becomes immediately clear there won’t be enough left for others. This has made me wonder: does a lack of experience in serving others affect one’s ability to portion food with shared awareness?

When I ask a participant to portion a dish for the group, they often divide it equally across all plates—without considering whether the portions might be too large, or even welcome. On one occasion, a guest served an entire vegetable dish evenly, leaving no room for seconds or adjustments. I hadn’t shown a sample portion in advance and silently regretted it.

If I had asked a Japanese guest to serve, they likely would have started small, knowing that not everyone may want the same amount. Since then, I’ve made it a point to guide guests by explaining that we begin with modest servings, and anyone is welcome to return for more. This way of thinking—being mindful of others before serving oneself—is typical in Japanese culture, where consideration for the group often shapes individual behavior.

Mindful Eating and Less Is More

In Japanese culture, leaving food uneaten is considered impolite. It’s more respectful to decline a dish politely in advance than to leave it half-eaten. We order with care, often starting with a few small dishes and adding more as needed. Finishing one’s plate feels not just polite, but virtuous—an act of responsibility. This approach aligns with Buddhist teachings on mindful eating: know what you need, appreciate what you have, and avoid waste.

Ironically, I sometimes fail to uphold this principle when leading culinary tours in Japan. Eager to introduce visitors to local specialties, I tend to over-order. But not all dishes suit foreign palates, and food is occasionally left untouched. I feel a pang of guilt and often apologize to the restaurant staff.

At one izakaya known for its overflowing bowl of ikura (salmon roe) on rice, a server reminded me—gently but firmly—to order only what we could finish. I hadn’t expected the warning, but it underscored how seriously food waste is viewed. I wondered at first if the caution came because I was with foreign guests—but thinking back, I suspect it’s something they would say to anyone, Japanese included. The phrase, “Don’t even leave a single roe,” echoed something my grandmother used to say. It was a familiar reminder: every grain, every morsel, matters.

In many cultures, abundance at the table is seen as a symbol of generosity. In Japan, however, over-serving can cause discomfort. Guests may feel obliged to finish everything out of politeness, which can lead to guilt or unnecessary waste. To avoid this, Japanese hosts typically take a more modest approach—serving smaller portions at first and offering more only if it’s truly desired. This isn’t about frugality; it’s about respect—for the food, for the chef, and for the experience of the guest.

Small Habits, Shared Consequences

During my sushi classes, I often point out how much soy sauce participants pour into their small dipping plates without much thought. Some leave them nearly full at the end of the meal. In contrast, Japanese diners typically pour only a small amount—just enough for the sushi or sashimi they're eating—and often leave little to none behind.

I’ve even heard that some Japanese restaurants in Los Angeles have started using cheaper soy sauce, as it’s disheartening to see good-quality sauce routinely wasted. It’s a quiet but telling response to customers’ habits.

As I often say, the Japanese dislike over-serving—and over-plating is just as unwelcome. Even when it comes to pouring soy sauce, filling the small dipping dish to the brim is something we don’t appreciate. Typically, about 80% of the dish is considered full capacity, though in my mind, it’s better to pour even less than that. If you start with the minimum, you can always add more later.

We live in a world of shared consequences. The choices we make—even small ones—shape the systems we live in. Embracing the spirit of mottainai means becoming more aware: of what we consume, how much we waste, and the invisible labor behind each meal. For travelers, these cultural subtleties may be hard to catch, especially without language fluency. But if you pay close attention, you’ll start to notice the difference. And perhaps, like many Japanese, you’ll find a deeper sense of satisfaction in eating with care.

Omakase at a Sushi Restaurant: Do You Really Trust the Chef?

Many people assume that omakase is the best – or only – way to order at a sushi restaurant, but that’s not necessarily true. The concept of leaving everything up to the chef has gained popularity in the past decade, especially with the rise of online restaurant reviews and social media hype. However, before the internet era, people typically stuck to one or two favorite sushi spots in their neighborhood. Unless it was for a special occasion or a trusted recommendation, they rarely ventured out to try new sushi restaurants—let alone traveled far for one.

With instant access to restaurant reviews, menu photos, and pricing, seeking out high-end or remote sushi spots has become a modern pastime. But before smartphones and online ratings, people relied on word-of-mouth referrals before stepping into a new place. Dining out was more about loyalty—returning to familiar local restaurants rather than exploring new ones.

Unlike today, where sushi can be a casual meal, previous generations in Japan saw sushi as a special occasion meal, often tied to festivals or family gatherings. When I was growing up, my parents—born in the 1950s—did not go out for sushi every week. Even in corporate settings, only top executives could regularly enjoy sushi on company accounts.

When they did go, they sat at the counter, observing the neta (fish display), and ordered piece by piece or asked the chef for recommendations. If they were drinking, they started with sashimi, only moving on to sushi after finishing their drinks. The meal ended with soup, followed by seasonal fruit. My childhood sushi memories involve sitting at the counter next to my parents, simply ordering what I wanted to eat. (But we were not allowed to order uni! because it was too pricy.)

While omakase offers a structured and refined experience, I personally start with the lunch prix fixe when trying a new restaurant. If I like it, then I’ll try the omakase for dinner. Some sushi restaurants offer a few price points, while others have only one fixed price, making it a risky commitment, especially for tourists.

I once visited a Michelin-starred sushi restaurant in Tokyo with a friend who wanted to try it. We both ordered their omakase; the first piece served was a hand roll, which caught me off guard. Hand rolls contain more rice than nigiri, making them overly filling early in the meal—so I usually order them at the very end. By the time I reached the supposed highlight—three different cuts of tuna—I was almost full. I wasn’t alone—a family of three (who were not Japanese) left halfway through the meal. I pushed myself to finish, but in hindsight, I could have left too. If this had not been a fixed-price omakase, I could have simply ordered what I truly wanted and enjoyed it more.

As a tourist in Japan, you may want to try the best-rated sushi restaurants, regardless of price. However, keep in mind that the most popular sushi spots in Tokyo are often fully booked months in advance or only take reservations from regular customers.

If omakase feels like too big a commitment, another traditional way to order sushi is by choosing a set menu for one person. These are often ranked as:

• Matsu (松 / Pine Tree) – The highest-priced set, featuring premium sushi pieces such as fatty tuna

• Také (竹 / Bamboo) – A mid-tier option

• Umé (梅 / Plum Tree) – A more affordable selection

These pre-set platters are typically served in a stackable round sushi container, making them a great entry point at a local sushi restaurant that doesn’t offer omakase. You can always add one or two extra pieces of sushi after trying the set!

If you’re planning a sushi experience in Japan, don’t feel pressured to go only to the most famous or expensive places. There are many fantastic mid-tier sushi restaurants where you can choose from different price points, ensuring an authentic and enjoyable meal without breaking the bank.

The best sushi experience is ultimately the one that suits your personal style. For my culinary tours, I often opt for omakase to ensure a smooth dining experience—but of course, I’ve already been to the restaurant and fully trust the chef and their style.

However, when dining with family or close friends, we order piece by piece, enjoying the meal at our own pace.

So, do you trust the chef you haven’t met yet and go for omakase, or do you prefer to order what you love? Hopefully, you’ll explore different styles of sushi in Japan—even if that means trying a popular kaiten-sushi revolving sushi restaurant as well!

If you haven't read Sushi in Tokyo, but not in Kyoto, I highly recommend it before planning your sushi dinner!

Copyright © 2025 Yoko Isaji. All Rights Reserved.

Japanese Chopsticks & Dining Traditions

How to Place Chopsticks

Do you know how to properly place chopsticks in Japanese dining? Unlike Western dining, where forks and knives are positioned vertically, Japanese chopsticks are always placed horizontally, parallel to the table edge. This practice differs from many other Asian cultures that position chopsticks vertically.

Observing how chopsticks are placed can even offer a clue about who runs a restaurant—if they're positioned vertically, it’s a sign that the establishment is likely not Japanese-owned. Since the majority of "Japanese" restaurants in the U.S. are actually run by non-Japanese people, I can’t help but wish they would at least place chopsticks parallel if they are calling themselves Japanese restaurants!

Interestingly, spoons were only gradually introduced to Japanese culture after the Meiji era (1868–1912), as Western influences spread following the Meiji Restoration—and even more rapidly into households after World War II. Before that, the only exceptions were among aristocratic families and the medical field.

Traditionally, chopsticks were the sole utensil used for meals, and Japanese dishes were designed to be easily lifted by hand, allowing people to drink directly from bowls or bring plates close to their mouths. This explains why Japanese meals typically feature multiple small dishes instead of one large plate.

Over the last half-century, Western-influenced dishes categorized in Japan as “Yōshoku,” such as Japanese curry, hamburg steak, and omurice, have become staples in Japanese households. Today, udon soup often comes with a spoon, and some bowls are now too large to hold by hand. In the US, it has also become standard to serve miso soup with a spoon, a practice not common in Japan. Food culture continues to evolve, but the parallel placement of chopsticks remains unchanged, a tradition upheld for more than a thousand years. Interestingly, China once followed this same practice until the Song Dynasty (960–1279), when chopsticks began to be placed vertically.

Japan has preserved many traditions that originated along the Silk Road, even as they have faded in their countries of origin. Once these customs arrived in Japan, they were carefully maintained, while other regions often lost them due to historical, cultural, and societal changes—whether through invasion, political transformation, or shifts in social structures.

The Japanese Tradition of Individual Dining Sets

Until you sit at a Japanese family dining table, you may not realize that everyone has their own chopsticks, rice bowl, and teacup. Growing up in Japan, my chopsticks were always mine, just as my siblings had their own—each with a different color, size, and design. When setting the table, we carefully placed the correct chopsticks, bowls, and teacups at each family member’s assigned seat. If someone mixed them up, we’d quickly correct them!

Why don’t Japanese families use communal chopsticks and dishware? The answer lies in the traditional Japanese home. Historically, Japanese homes featured tatami rooms with sliding doors, serving as both dining and (sometimes) sleeping areas. Dining sets were stored away, and futons were laid out at night.

Up until the 1950s and 60s, many families still used "Hako-zen"—a personal wooden box that stored an individual’s chopsticks, rice bowl, miso soup bowl, and small plates. At mealtime, each family member would take out their Hako-zen, flip the lid to create a mini dining table (called "O-zen"), and set up their own dishware. After the meal, everything was neatly packed back into the box, which could be stacked and stored on shelves. This system allowed families to maintain individual dining traditions while maximizing space in multi-functional tatami rooms.

I recently discovered that the writing desk my mother has been using was originally our family dining table, long before I was born. What caught my attention was that each seat had its own drawer, where family members stored their personal dining sets—a unique intermix of the Japanese Hako-zen tradition and a Western-style dining table!

This reminded me of a recent dining experience at a local restaurant in Japan, where knives and forks were stored in drawers built into the table. What I initially thought was a fun and unique concept turned out to have historical roots!

While modern Japanese homes now have fixed dining tables, many families still follow the tradition of having their own chopsticks, rice bowls, and teacups. This custom reflects Japan’s deep-rooted dining traditions.

Next time you travel to Japan, stop by a chopsticks or dishware store and take a look at the wide variety of chopsticks available—from simple everyday designs to luxurious, handcrafted pieces.

Disappearing tradition:

When I was little, I remember my grandmother hosting family gatherings in a tatami room with o-zen—individual dining tables. Today, most Japanese people prefer sitting on chairs.

I hosted this style of dinner for my tour group when they stayed at my family home in Gifu. But knowing that sitting on the floor can be uncomfortable, I encouraged everyone to sit casually.

Hako-Zen

I sometimes ask myself why I own so many plates and bowls. I wish the Japanese Hako-zen tradition had prevailed—then, when I needed to move, my entire dining set could fit neatly into one box!

Hako-zen Meets Western Dining Table

I found this table at an interdisciplinary restaurant showcasing Japanese regional produce and craftsmanship, fused with Western cooking techniques—beyond national boundaries.

What I initially thought was just a fun and well-designed piece turned out to have a fascinating connection—my mother has an antique version of this table, which she has been using as her writing and hobby desk!

Copyright © 2025 Yoko Isaji. All Rights Reserved.

Japan Travel Tips: Why Sushi in Tokyo, Not Kyoto?

Do you know how many sushi restaurants there are in Tokyo versus Kyoto? During one of my culinary tours, a participant asked for sushi restaurant recommendations in Kyoto, which led me to conduct extensive research. I already knew Tokyo had far more sushi restaurants, but I hadn’t realized just how few options were available in Kyoto. Naturally, the larger population in Tokyo results in more sushi restaurants, but it’s not just about numbers. Many listings include casual take-out and conveyor belt sushi spots. In this article, I will use "sushi" specifically to refer to counter-seated sushi restaurants that serve hand-held nigiri sushi. Here, I share my discoveries through research, experience, and historical knowledge.

The History of Sushi in Tokyo

When you think of sushi, you likely imagine Edo-mae sushi, which originated in Tokyo. Formerly known as "Edo," Tokyo was the birthplace of hand-held nigiri sushi. In the 18th century, Edo's population exceeded that of London, reaching over a million residents. As the political and economic center of Japan, the city attracted people from all over the country. This bustling environment helped Edo-style sushi gain popularity. Initially a street food, it later evolved into an established dining experience with many dedicated sushi restaurants.

A major turning point for Edo-mae sushi came in 1923 when the Great Kanto Earthquake devastated Tokyo. With over 100,000 casualties and widespread destruction caused by the city's wooden construction, many residents, including sushi chefs, were forced to relocate. Many returned to their hometowns, bringing Edo-mae sushi with them and spreading it across Japan. This is how Tokyo-style sushi transitioned from a regional specialty to a nationwide phenomenon. While this change didn’t happen overnight, it played a crucial role in making Edo-mae sushi the most iconic sushi style today.

Kyoto’s Unique Sushi Culture

Unlike Tokyo, Kyoto is known for saba sushi (mackerel sushi) rather than Edo-mae sushi. While standalone sushi restaurants are relatively rare in Kyoto, many kaiseki and kappo restaurants, as well as some izakaya, serve mackerel sushi as part of their menus. Saba sushi is also a popular to-go item, so you may find packaged take-out versions in department store food sections.

Kyoto’s geography plays a key role in its sushi traditions. Located inland and far from the ocean, the city of Kyoto historically lacked access to fresh seafood. To address this, Kyoto relied on preserved fish and ingredients transported along the Saba-kaido (Mackerel Road)—a route from the Sea of Japan (present-day Fukui Prefecture) that supplied dried kelp and seafood from Hokkaido, as well as fresh mackerel. Preservation techniques such as curing with salt and vinegar allowed Kyoto residents to enjoy sushi despite their distance from the coast.

I’m not the only one who has noticed the increasing demand for sushi restaurants in Kyoto, especially as tourism continues to rise. Michelin-starred Japanese restaurants like Kikunoi have even opened sushi establishments in Kyoto. I’m curious to see how they adapt sushi to fit Kyoto’s unique dining culture. As I write this in 2025, the sushi scene in Kyoto is still evolving, and by 2035, there could be significantly more sushi restaurants. However, at present, most Japanese tourists don’t visit Kyoto with sushi in mind for lunch or dinner.

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Photo：Saba Sushi

If you’re visiting Japan for the first time, Tokyo remains the ultimate destination for sushi, with thousands of sushi restaurants specializing in Edo-mae sushi. However, if you find yourself in Kyoto, don’t expect the same sushi culture as in Tokyo. Instead, take the opportunity to try saba sushi, a Kyoto specialty with deep historical roots. You may also come across temari-sushi, a small round-shaped sushi that has gained popularity in Kyoto. Nobu referred to it as 'sushi bon-bon' in his cookbook. If you’ve taken our sushi class, you may recall making them yourself!

Kyoto offers a unique dining experience where sushi is often served as part of elaborate traditional meals rather than as a stand-alone dish. When traveling, it’s always best to explore local favorites rather than sticking to what is familiar. Japanese cuisine outside Japan remains somewhat limited, so keeping an open mind—and palate—will enhance your culinary adventures. Enjoy your journey!

Copyright © 2025 Yoko Isaji. All Rights Reserved.